How To Buy A Printer That Won?t Break The Bank

OK I confess I've bought at least 10 inkjet printers in the last 5 years and finally found one that I really like. I'm not going to mention the brand here but I will tell you what the must have features are for me.

After years of refilling HP-like inkjet cartridges where the Cyan, Magenta and Yellow tanks were all mixed together in one unit I decided to buy a printer that allowed you to change each color tank individually. Although a minor change this affected how much it cost to print a colored output page in a huge degree. I never liked the concept of having all of the colors in one cartridge to start with. Every time I went to replace an empty cartridge I wondered how much ink was left in the other two colored ink tanks. If you didn't notice they were always a dark color making it impossible to tell how much was actually in the tank.

My new unit seems to use the Yellow cartridge (black aside) more than any other color which makes me curse the days where I envisioned myself throwing money in the toilet by only using half of the colored ink in a multi color ink jet cartridge. This backs up my initial thought process and confirmed all suspicions.

Since I'm a small business owner and penny pinching is always a must, I continuously test how much mileage that I get out of a cartridge. As you well know the little pop up window tells you when your cartridge is running low and it seems like it's there to annoy you and serves no other purpose. Being the cheapo that I am I decided to ignore the warnings and bells and whistles that normally go off and run a cartridge to the end of its tank.

It was tense, a sense of childlike mischief came across my mental state. I was actually defying the printing gods by defying their warnings of certain doom, nefariously clicking the cancel on every warning message. Surely something spectacular would happen at the end of the life of this inkjet cartridge! I had gotten about a thousand messages warning me of the peril that was coming my way. I envisioned scenes from nuclear war footage and big things happening like the printer exploding or perhaps the printer cartridge police showing up at my house and arresting me for such gross disrespect for printer law. Whatever happened this would be BIG!

Well after running the cartridge for about a month I got a harmless message that the cartridge was now out. No big light show, no explosion no nothing, what a disappointment! Anyway, I installed a new cartridge, realigned the thing using the printing utility and was up and running in about five minutes.

The point of the whole ordeal was to figure out how many more print jobs that I could do without changing the ink. Thus, saving me some extra cash. Well a month of printing is nothing to scoff at and it ended up saving me around $5.00 by using the cartridge down to the last drop.

Will it work on your printer? I don't know.. But you should check out the manual for your printer to ensure that you won't damage it by running the cartridge dry.

But friend I choose to live life on the edge. =)

Alexis Allen is a self-described consumer advocate in the Home Electronics Industry. You can check out her latest articles on the cost of printing at <a target="_new" href="http://www.cheap-toner-cartridges.com">http://www.cheap-toner-cartridges.com</a>

Ink Cartridge Recycling 101

Let's take a moment to think about the topic of ink cartridge recycling. In our modern world we just keep throwing our trash away without sparing it a second thought. But where does all this left over trash go? It all goes to the local landfill polluting the land and water table. Is there anything we can do towards &quot;saving the planet&quot;? What if you could help save the planet and make some money doing it? It sounds too good to be true doesn't it? Right now there are companies that will take away your empty ink cartridges and give you money in return!

A number of companies will be more than happy to take those old cartridges off of your hands and give you cash for your troubles. Visionary companies see the benefits of recycling for the planet and also the employment potential of such projects. If there are particular inkjet brands you tend to use like Apple, Canon or Epson the recycling companies will happily buy the empties from you. You can go through a list of cartridges and select the type you have they will tell you how much you'll get in return. The rest is done through e-mail or over the phone. Isn't that a neat way to reduce waste and help the planet at the same time?

Another popular place to find information on recycling inkjet cartridges is at www.fundingfactory.com. They will help your non-profit organization, school, sports team or library achieve their goals in fund raising. Funding Factory offer their servicesa as the biggest free recycling fundraising program in the United States and Canada. They'll give you top dollar for your old cartridges which in turn will allow many schools to reach their potential goals with their fundraising projects. This is a great site and it's free! What a great way to rid yourself of your old ink cartridges.

Ok, so what if you want to do the recycling yourself? There are plenty of options available to you. A number of companies sell kits that are specifically designed to allow you to refill your inkjet cartridge. Prices vary from vendor to vendor - as can quality so buyer beware. A refill kit contains a syringe like instrument, some rubber stops and the replacement ink itself. The "syringe" is filled with ink and inserted into the cartridge to quickly top it up. Some people find this whole process a little too messy. For other people it's a money saver that's well worth the effort. In addition, you are also saving the planet by reducing plastic waste. Refilling your ink cartridges is worthwhile in terms of saving you money and also helping the environment.

One final note is to check with the manufacturer of your inkjet cartridge to see if they operate their own recycling program. At the moment Hewlett Packard, Epson and Lexmark operate a defined inkjet cartridge recycling program whilst Canon are still catching up the rear. Lexmark even go as far as paying for the postage!

This article was provided courtesy of Inkjet Printables.com. On the website you'll find tons of useful information on <A target="_new" HREF="http://www.inkjet-printables.com">cheap inkjet cartridges</A>

Does Size Really Matter In Our Digital Age?

Well, we've all seen the advert, but that's not what I want to talk about, so get that out of your head straight away. No, let's think about what many call the &quot;Queen of Arts&quot; - namely painting.

Have you ever wandered around a huge Art Gallery and marvelled at the works by Tintoretto, Raphael, Constable or any master painter who has produced huge canvasses? Then again, we have many fine examples of beautiful artwork in cameos and miniatures. In fact, in all sizes between these two extremes the evidence of creative genius can be found down through the ages.

However, it's patently obvious that the correlation between size and creative genius is poor. Mere size on the premise, &quot;never mind the quality feel the width&quot; is not the prime element of a masterpiece. Yes we are fascinated by the Sistine Chapel, for example, by the sheer scale of the paintings, but it's the genius of the painter that draws the eye. It's also true though that the artist tugs at our heartstrings by the wealth of detail that working in a large format permits.

In the same way, large format and medium format cameras have traditionally been the working tools of professional photographers for many, many years. In a previous article, I suggested that there would always be room for film, especially for users of the larger formats.

Now, we get to the nub of the matter, because in digital parlance, the wealth of detail evident in the larger formats is expressed as the size of the file. Unlike physical dimensions which cannot be changed once the work has been committed to the recording medium, be it film or indeed canvas size, the digital file is not so restricted.

Of course, when image size is changed from the original during, say, image compression, there is generally a loss in quality e.g. jpeg Even the use of a lossless transformation doesn't add anything to the image, it merely preserves what's there.

However, there is a revolutionary item of image manipulation software that does totally &quot;change the picture&quot; It comes as a Photoshop plug-in with Photoshop 6.0 or higher and it's called &quot;Genuine Fractals&quot; and here is what the originators claim,

&quot;It's an indispensable tool for photographers, graphic artists and digital imaging professionals, Genuine Fractals enables you to create resolution-independent images from any size file and lets you print superior quality enlargements without any degradation in image quality&quot;

By saving your digital image with this package as a very small stn file, you can create lossless files of up to 70Mb and beyond. After saving and re-opening this file in Photoshop, Genuine Fractal kicks in and you can easily produce files of a specified size

I was stunned by this software and began to wonder what the impact might be for both digital photographers and medium/large format professionals. Of course, as already stated, this increased size does NOT put extra information into the shot. There again, neither does making a 67 dupe of a 35mm slide improve image quality and many photographers still do that when submitting to libraries.

Digital photographers may get even more benefits by beefing up the file size using Genuine Fractals, before printing out enlargements. This could be very useful for Wedding Photographers who want the convenience of using a digital camera, but are unhappy about the quality of enlargements often requested. Using Genuine Fractals may save time effort and money by eliminating the need for a film backup camera.

On the other hand, it may be that Genuine Fractals may produce the best result with photos captured from film and then scanned, because noise in the original image is not removed when enlarged, in fact it will be more obvious. This means that mid-range digital camera shots are likely to fare worse on enlargment than film shots captured with 10 million pixels+

With a new version Genuine Fractals 3.5 just released, it could be worth a test and could be a worthwhile investment too. So, if you want to explore this a little more, get a copy of Amateur Photographer for 23 October 2004 and read their review of this exciting software.

You can get a free test copy of the software itself from this link: <a href="http://www.dcp-systems.co.uk" target="_new">http://www.dcp-systems.co.uk</a>

Why bother with a medium format camera if 35mm caressed by this Software will do instead? Oh I know I'll get lectures from purists for even suggesting something so daft, given superior lenses and better optics, but for some people that may be just overkill. If this article has opened up the possibility of a better working method for some freelances, that's all that matters.

So don't please run around telling your mates that size does not matter and that I've assigned medium format cameras to the dustbin of history. No, I'm just shining the spotlight on that funny old coin digital/film and giving it a flick in the air. Who knows how it will land? At least I've got a 50-50 chance of being right!

About The Author

One of a series of articles by Robert Hartness, successful freelance and author of an hotlinked, flip-over, e-book, published on the web in October 2004. It offers a step-by-step guide to those on the threshold of freelance photography and is illustrated with 40+ published photographs. Acclaimed as a great reference source for serious freelancers. More information and order link - <a href="http://www.cashfromyourcamera.com" target="_new">http://www.cashfromyourcamera.com</a> Press Release: <a href="http://www.prweb.com/releases/2004/10/prweb168698.php" target="_new">http://www.prweb.com/releases/2004/10/prweb168698.php</a>

Generation Laptop

In May 2005 U.S hardware history was made.

This was the first time that laptops sold more than desktop computers in a single month. Indeed, Current Analysis, an innovative research firm headquartered in Sterling, Virginia, confirmed that laptop sales leapt to 53.3 per cent of the total PC retail market in May 2005.

Were these figures just a blip on the the computer sales radar? Let your own eyes answer that question for you - Folks using laptops are everywhere! - People checking their emails in coffee shops, students studying interactively in the classroom, business men and women compiling data reports on planes and trains.

So, what current factors contribute to the massive popularity of laptops with the computer buying public?

AFFORDABILITY

Five years ago, you could walk into a computer store with four thousand dollars, and emerge bow legged, carrying a bulky notebook computer the size of a sewing machine - about as cutting edge as grandpa's pipe and smoking jacket. Today you can pick up a Compaq NX6125 from HP, equipped with a biometric fingerprint reader, 60GB hard drive, and an AMD 64 bit Turion processor for less than $1000!

Expect prices for laptops to get even lower in the coming months thanks to intense competition between the two heavyweight processor manufacturers, Intel and AMD. Both companies have introduced mobile chips with speeds that offer desktop performance.

CONNECTIVITY

Laptops with Wi-Fi are no longer an optional luxury. At Mammoth Coffee in Newport, Ohio, more and more business owners are jostling for notebook "office space", - to the modest tune of a blueberry muffin, and a Cafe Au Lait.

Those who dine at fine restaurants at the very least expect a sensory, savory meal, set upon a table with fine silver and white table cloths; superior service; and ambient lighting. Well that's exactly what's on the menu at Trapeze restaurant in Burlingame, California,- along with wireless access service for laptops.

Wireless fidelity has moved effortlessly from the boundaries of home and office to the pristine elegance of posh restaurants. But, will the wireless laptop revolution end here?

Last Mile Communications have even greater ambitions for Wi-Fi notebooks. They hope to use the established infrastructure of the many lamp-posts dotting around merry old England to produce a network of wireless access points.

This ambitious UK company would like convert the street lights so they can be accessed via your laptop to get on the internet. Last mile would also like to put flash memory in the lights so even without accessing the web you could find information about local amenities, and emergency fire, police and ambulance services.

PORTABILITY

Laptops with performance rivalling that of desktop computers used to be knee breakers - Not any more. A stream of high quality ultralights and ultraportables have flooded onto the market in the last few months.

Acer's Red dot award winner,the Travelmate 3000 boasts a widescreen 12.1 inch panoramic display, and the notebook's compact chassis occupies less desktop space than a sheet of A4 paper - weighing just 1.4kg. The Sony T2, a sleek silver ultralight laptop, is equipped with a 60GB hard drive, 1.2GHz processor and weighs just under 1.4kg.

Too big you say? How about Toshiba's Libretto U100? This laptop weighs just 2.16 pounds, has a 1.20GHz Intel Pentium M processor, and sports a hard drive protection system.

Tom Fox writes for the <a target="_new" href="http://www.laptopical.com">Laptops Weblog</a> - Laptopical is a site dedicated to offering relevant news commentary and reviews about notebook computers.

More <a target="_new" href="http://www.laptopical.com/site-map.html">laptop news</a>

Hard Drive Selection

Perhaps the biggest mistake people make when building their computer(s) is to underestimate the importance of the hard disk drive (HDD). In our modern society, bigger is synonymous with better, so when you go to buy a hard drive you look at how "big" it is, its data capacity. But is that all you should be considering when buying your hard drive?

Like every other component of your computer, the HDD is far too complex a system to describe in any sort of detail here, but hopefully by the end of this article you will know what to look for when you go to buy your new hard drive.

There are 4 primary aspects to look at in a hard drive (in order of importance):

<li>Rotational frequency and average seek time

<li>Buffer size

<li>Internal/external transfer rates

<li>Capacity

Rotational frequency has become a large selling point (5400/7200/10000/15000RPM) recently, so you shouldn't have too much difficulty finding out what the rotational frequency of your HDD is when you go to buy it. Now of course the faster it spins, the faster it can read from the disk (there are other advantages also), but be aware that the faster it spins, the more wear is put on the drive, and the more likely it is to encounter errors and malfunctions later in life. Hard drives are pretty much the only systems within your computer that have moving parts (CD-ROM, floppy disk drives, and fans also have moving parts, but they're all cheap and if they break you won't lose all the data you've accumulated over the course of owning your computer, be sure to back up your data regularly!).

If you know anything about physics or engineering, then you know that moving parts produce friction and wear, and a faster spinning platter (the part that holds the data and spins) means more friction, and therefore more wear on your drive. Of course the faster it spins the faster it can read data from the platter. So what can you do? well again you backup your data as much as possible and you get the fastest spinning drive money can buy (which is 7200RPM for ATA devices (the sort you are buying) and 15000RPM for SCSI and some Serial ATA devices (you might get Serial ATA, that depends on your motherboard)). So look for a "7200RPM" label on the drive you're thinking of getting, it's important!

The "buffer" I'm referring to is the transfer buffer that temporarily stores data to read from or write to the hard drive. The reason for this is that the bus (data channel between the hard drive and the motherboard) can only handle so much information at a time, and it takes a long time for the data to be found and retrieved from a platter (random seek time), so it takes a big chunk of the requested data and stores it in a very fast data buffer to be sent at the bus's convenience. So with a larger buffer you can queue more data for transfer over the bus without having to keep sending requests to slowly find more data from the platters. Some newer drives come with as much as 8MB of buffer capacity, but it is more common to see 2 or 4MB. Usually a drive with a large amount will use that as a selling point and print it on the box/website, otherwise you can assume it has a 2/4MB buffer. My advice is to find one with as much as you can afford.

Now for the transfer rates you're going to need to do some searching, the best way to find these numbers is to go to the manufacturer's website and look at specification sheet for the model you're looking to buy (actually this is the best way to get all the information I've talked about so far). One thing to look out for is that you may read something that says 133MB/s or ATA/133 or SATA150 or 150MB/s, and these are not the numbers you are looking for, those numbers describe the bus connecting the hard drive to the motherboard, and are theoretical peak numbers, which tell us virtually nothing. Also, if you are buying a Maxtor, don't bother looking up actual transfer rates, as Maxtor is apparently afraid to release such information. Not to say Maxtor's are bad drives, actually Maxtor has risen to the top in terms of technical support and they are much more willing to replace broken drives than some other companies, which is important since some ridiculously large amount (something like 10 or 15%) of hard drives are either dead on arrival or die within the first few weeks of use. As with the last two points, when looking at transfer speeds (if you can find them) always try to pick the one with the highest numbers you can afford.

Notice that the first three of the 4 major aspects were all speed related? That was done intentionally to give you a sense of the importance of speed in the hard drive, because they are very very slow creatures, and for your gaming experience you don't need an enormous hard drive so much as a fast one. To increase speed substantially more you can set up a RAID, which is a network of hard drives which (in RAID0 mode) share portions of the same data, such that accessing data takes 1/n time (n = number of hard drives attached) compared to 1 hard drive. To do this you really need a hardware RAID chipset, which are commonly included on higher-end mainboards.

Finally, capacity is an unnecessary nicety. The smallest hard drives you can buy today that are still within those higher speed classes are all about 30GB, which is more than enough for your games. But since games are not everything, and if you happen to be an iTunes member or like to download anime then you will really want some extra space. So I would recommend getting something between 60 and 120GB, any more and you're going to be paying through your teeth, any less and you might be looking to buy a supplementary hard drive in a couple years. And, oh yeah, 300GB hard drives from Maxtor are out, but they are comparatively slow, so I wouldn't recommend getting one for gaming, I like to stick to single platter drives (40-100GB usually), as they produce less heat and are less likely to break down on me.

That is really all you need to know in order to make a good choice when upgrading your hard drive or buying one for a new computer. Of course there are many other resources on the web if you would like more detail on the inner working of hard drives.

About The Author

J A Carpunky <a href="http://www.computer-gaming-system.com" target="_new">http://www.computer-gaming-system.com</a> - visit our website for further information.

How To Format A Hard Drive

Here's how to format a hard drive (Legal Stuff: We are not responsible for any damages, lost data, or anything of the sort)...

If you have a computer, you surely know what a hard drive is. If you don't have one, or simply don't know what a hard drive is, then this article will begin with a short description of the hard drive. Then we will cover formating a hard drive...

Step 1: What Is A Hard Disk Drive?

A hard disk drive in computing is a type of storage device made up of hard disk platters, a spindle, read and write heads read and write arms, electrical motors, and integrated electronics contained inside an airtight enclosure.

Now you know what the hard drive is. Let's stick to the point and start with the information on the title of this article. How to format a hard disk drive....

Step 2...

First of all, you should have a reason if you really want to learn how to format a hard drive. But don't forget that formating a hard drive does NOT permanently delete your data!

Of course, when you format your hard drive you think that the data is really deleted, but that is not the case.

The fact is that the data you have "deleted" can be restored. Nonetheless, you should not experiment with formatting a hard drive because you never know what may happen. Of course, it also depends on the software you use, for example, there are such products that will permanently delete the data you want and then you can continue the process of how to format a hard drive.

Step 3...

In fact there is nothing so difficult in it. You first need to decide what operating system you intend to load after formating a hard drive.

It is best and easiest to use a boot disk for that Operating System, such as MS Dos6.2 or Windows95b or Windows98SE. You will need the proper Windows95/98 boot disk in order to load these operating systems on the computer, else it will reject loading due to the wrong Operating System on the computer.

Step 4...

Then you will have to insert your boot disk in the floppy drive and start the computer.

Once the system has completed booting and an A: prompt appears. You will need to type format C: /s and then press Enter. The function of this command is to tell the system to format your "C" drive and when it is finished to copy the system files to the drive.

The "/s" switches for "System". You can format a different drive this way by using a different drive letter.

Step 5...

After that you will see on the screen the following text: "WARNING, ALL DATA ON NON-REMOVABLE DISK DRIVE C: WILL BE LOST! Proceed with Format (Y/N)?" and if you really want to continue, type [Y] and then press Enter.

Your screen should display the size of your drive and a countdown in percentage of formatting completed. Depending on your computer's speed and the size of the drive it can take from a few minutes to over 15 minutes.

When it reaches 100% complete, you will see a new message: FORMAT COMPLETE. SYSTEM TRANSFERRED. This message is to indicate that the files required to boot your computer from the hard drive have been copied from the floppy to the hard drive.

The computer can now boot from the hard drive without a boot disk in the floppy drive.

The last message that will appear on your screen is the following: "Volume label (11 characters, ENTER for none)?" You can either press any key to continue, or simply to press Enter. And now, you can finally begin to load your Operating System.

Keep in mind that you can receive an error message, which says "insufficient memory to load system files". If you do receive such message, do not worry. It is caused by the lack of a memory manager loaded at boot and your PC can only access the first 1mg of ram memory.

You can handle this situation with two options. The first one is to omit the /s switch when formatting. You should do it by typing this: FORMAT C: and then press Enter. Then when the format is complete, manually add the system files to your hard drive by using this command: SYS C: and press Enter again.

The second solution is to load a memory manager in order to overcome this issue. If you don't have any you can easily download one from one of the million sites on the Internet.

Step 6...

You see, we have finally reached the end of How To Format A Hard Drive. and consequently ? the end of this article. Now you surely know how to format a hard drive. But, once again, don't play with the commands if you are not serious about formating a hard drive.

Even if the data is restorable you may do something wrong to your computer. That is why, you should be careful! And now, good luck!

?2004-2005 Brian Maroevich

About The Author

Brian Maroevich is founder of <a href="http://Cheap-Computers-Guild.com" target="_new">Cheap-Computers-Guild.com</a>. Brian is also an author, marketing consultant, computer enthusiast, and athlete. Email: <a href="mailto:brian@cheap-computers-guild.com">brian@cheap-computers-guild.com</a>

A Technical Introduction to Audio Cables

What is so important about cables anyway?

One of the most common questions asked by consumers faced with purchasing cables for their audio or home theater system is, &quot;What is so important about cables anyway?&quot; They can cost as much or more than some of the hardware in the system and to many it is difficult to understand why wire isn't just wire.

To begin to understand how audio cables work, we have to start with the two fundamentally different types of audio cables you are likely to have in your system. The first type of cable is called an interconnect, which is used to connect various components together (such as a CD player to a receiver). The second type of cable is called the loudspeaker cable (this is the wire going from the receiver or amplifier to the speakers). It is important to realize that both types of cables are carrying the same information, just with different amounts of energy.

Interconnects carry a signal with very little energy. These cables only need just enough energy to convey the information from the source, for example a CD player, to the amplifier. The low energy requirement means that the signal in interconnects has very little current (usually in the range of thousandths of an amp).

Loudspeaker cables on the other hand, carry a large amount of energy. All of the energy required to move the speaker cones and make sound must come through the loudspeaker cables. Because of the high-energy requirement in these cables the current is relatively high (currents can reach 10 amps or more).

The very basic reason why audio cables are important is because they change the signal going through them. There are two different, fundamental ways that an audio cable can change the signal. The cable itself can change the signal, or the cable can allow outside sources of energy to change the signal.

In order to understand how these two situations can occur, some basic background electrical knowledge is needed.

Signals in all types of wires are conveyed by the combination of voltage and current. Every signal has some amount of voltage and some amount of current. The larger the difference in voltage between two places, say the beginning and the end of a cable, the larger the amount of current, and vice-versa. The direct analogy to voltage and current is the flow of water through a hose. The amount of water flowing through the hose is analogous to current. The water pressure in the hose is analogous to voltage. The higher the amount of water pressure, the more water will flow through the hose. The higher the amount of voltage, the more current will flow through the wire.

Every cable has a set of electrical properties that can be measured using standard electrical testing equipment. The three most basic properties are resistance, capacitance and inductance. While a detailed description of these three different electrical properties is outside the scope of this article, a basic description of the relevant effects of these three properties can be given.

- Resistance opposes current. The higher the resistance the greater the amount of energy that is removed from the current and turned into heat.

- Capacitance opposes changes in voltage. If a voltage is increasing, capacitance will cause the voltage to increase more slowly. If a voltage is decreasing, capacitance will cause the voltage to decrease more slowly.

- Inductance opposes changes in current. If current is increasing, inductance will cause the current to increase more slowly. If current is decreasing, inductance will cause the current to decrease more slowly.

The final piece of background knowledge that is needed for this article is what the audio signal looks like. If one were to take the speaker cover off a speaker to look at the speaker cone while music is playing, you would see that it is moving back and forth. In order to move the speaker cone back and forth, the electrical signal must push and then pull the cone in rapid and repeating fashion. This is accomplished by having an Alternating Current, or AC.

Alternating Current simply means that the voltage oscillates between positive and negative. Because the voltage drives the current, this means that the current also goes positive and negative. In other words, the current is going back and forth in the wire, just like the speaker cone. The subtle variations in how fast the voltage and current go back and forth creates the different sounds that we hear when listening to music.

How a cable itself affects the audio signal

Now, going back to the ways that the cable itself can change the signal going through it, let's consider both types of cables separately.

As stated previously, interconnect cables carry a very small amount of current. Relative to the current the voltage is large. Because of that fact, capacitance is important, but inductance is relatively unimportant. As the voltage oscillates between being positive and negative, the capacitance slows the voltage changes down, and causes delays. This can cause audible distortion in the sound. Because interconnects have very little current, resistance is not much of a factor. Even an interconnect with extremely high resistance will only remove an infinitesimally small amount of energy.

The signal in loudspeaker cables is essentially the opposite of the signal in interconnects. Both cables have the same information, but in loudspeaker cables, the voltage is small and the current is large, relatively speaking. Because of the high current, both resistance and inductance are important in loudspeaker cables. The higher the resistance, the greater the amount of energy that will be absorbed by the cables. The resistance will not cause any distortion, but it will decrease the volume of the sound. The inductance on the other hand, can cause distortion. As the current oscillates between being positive and negative, the inductance slows the current changes down, and causes delays.

How a cable lets outside sources of energy affect the signal

As stated previously, the second fundamental way of altering a signal passing through an audio cable is to introduce outside sources of energy. This outside energy is typically termed &quot;noise&quot;. By definition, if any energy is absorbed by the signal, the signal has been distorted.

There are many potential sources of noise around audio cables. Some of the more common sources of noise, such as radio frequency waves, are familiar to most people. When wiring up a radio, frequently a consumer must attach an antenna. Antennae are intentionally designed to channel radio frequency energy into a stereo. Just like an antenna, it is entirely possible for an audio cable to pick up radio frequency energy. If you are not intending to listen to the radio, this is not a welcome effect.

Electronic components, electrical cords, sound waves, and even the sun, are all capable of creating noise. Electrical cords create electromagnetic fields around them that can transfer energy to a cable. Sound waves create mechanical vibrations that can be transformed into electrical energy that is added to an audio signal. Because there are so many different types of noise, there are many methods used to prevent a cable from picking up noise. Shielding, twisting of conductors, and mechanical damping are all common noise protection methods in cables.

While noise affects both interconnects and loudspeaker cables, generally the effects are far more significant in interconnects. This is because the signals in the interconnects have far less energy. Since most forms of noise are inherently low energy to begin with, this means that it is far easier for them to modify the low energy interconnect signals than the high-energy loudspeaker cable signals.

Macro vs. Micro

The parameters discussed so far have been primarily &quot;macro&quot; effects. These are for the most part the top-level parameters that effect cables. These parameters as well as others not discussed here also exist at a &quot;micro&quot; level. Taking capacitance as an example, a given cable will have an overall capacitance that can be measured. This overall capacitance is a &quot;macro&quot; level parameter. The same cable can also be analyzed as 1000 separate but connected pieces. Each piece will have a local capacitance. These local parameters are &quot;micro&quot; effects and can have their own impact on the signal separate from the &quot;macro&quot; effects.

The impact that the &quot;micro&quot; level parameters have on an audio signal is usually less than the impact of the &quot;macro&quot; level parameters. However, they do still make a difference in the signal transfer. The various ways that audio companies choose to either mitigate or ignore these &quot;micro&quot; level details is, in part, responsible for the vast array of different cable designs. From cryogenic treatments and precious metal wires, to fine silk insulation and fluid filled cable jackets; extreme cable designs abound.

Will I hear the difference?

The fact of the matter is that cables do alter the sound going through them, and that it is audible. You do not need to be an expert, or an audiophile, to hear the difference. To demonstrate this point, simply listen to your stereo. If you close your eyes, does it sound like the music is being played live right in front of you? This is what audiophiles strive for, and unless you have a very high-fidelity system, your answer to this question will most likely be no. You may have a hard time describing what exactly does not sound right about your system, but you know that it doesn't sound like a live performance.

Of course, the reason why the music does not sound live cannot be blamed solely on the cables. The degradation of the sound occurs in every component of your system. However, the point here is that even a casual listener can detect the subtle distortions that can prevent music playback from sounding live. Improving the quality of your audio cables will improve the sound quality of your system.

It is fairly safe to say that no matter what cable you use, the modifications to the sound will be small. Audio cables will never cause a listener to hear a piano when a flute is being played. However, it is the small detail that makes all the difference between good and bad quality sound. That is why very strong opinions are formed about various cables.

As audio systems continue to improve in accuracy, listening to a &quot;live&quot; performance in your living room gets closer to reality. Cables are an enabling factor for advancements in audio reproduction and can play a remarkably important role in your system.

Adam Blake CEO / Co-Founder Pear Cable, Inc.
<a target="_new" href="http://www.pearcable.com">http://www.pearcable.com</a>
For a more detailed explanation of cable design theory that Pear Cable thinks is relevant, see the &quot;cable design&quot; white paper available on <a target="_new" href="http://pearcable.com">pearcable.com</a>

Lock Workstation Fast

When you work in an office, it's important to lock your workstation every time you step away from your computer. A pain, but a security measure. You wouldn't want someone sending a nasty-gram in your email address, would you? Here's a faster way to lock a workstation without going through the CTRL+ALT+DEL route.

On the desktop (Window+M), right-click an empty area and select New > Shortcut.

Copy and paste the following into the location box:

rundll32.exe user32.dll,LockWorkStation

Name the shortcut "Lock workstation" or whatever you prefer and click Finish. Click on it and the PC stands guard until you return and enter the correct password.

FYI: rundll32.exe is already in the path.

A reader wrote in, "Firstly, I'm not totally sure how creating an icon is any easier than the ALT+CTRL+DEL option. Pressing those keys then hitting space I would say is more often then not going to be quicker than finding your desktop and clicking on an icon. However, if you are looking for a quicker way to lock your computer. Perhaps you should try Windows + L."

I responded saying the ALT+CTRL+DEL option requires selecting Lock Workstation. Since we have to lock our workstation so often, I find clicking an icon faster. However, the Windows+L will work for keyboard fans. However, I checked Windows+L and it didn't work on my work computer.

<a target="_new" href="http://www.meryl.net/">Meryl K. Evans</a> is the Content Maven behind <a target="_new" href="http://www.meryl.net/blog/">meryl's notes</a>, <a target="_new" href="http://www.internetviz.com/">eNewsletter Journal, and The Remediator Security Digest</a>. She is also a PC Today columnist and a tour guide at InformIT. She is geared to tackle your editing, writing, content, and process needs. The native Texan resides in Plano, Texas, a heartbeat north of Dallas, and doesn't wear a 10-gallon hat or cowboy boots.

Buying Laser Toner Cartridges

Compatible Laser Toner Cartridges

Recently, there has been a huge legal and investigative battle with people selling &quot;compatible&quot; laser toner cartridges. Often, a distributor will sell their defective, ineffective, or even damaging laser toner cartridges to unsuspecting resellers. These cartridges will make weak prints, cause messy ink spray, and may cause serious damage to your printer. So be sure to buy cartridges from an authorized reseller that the manufacturer audits. Check the manufacturer's website to obtain a list of authorized resellers.

Beware of laser toner cartridges that are priced way below market standard. Bad or old packaging should also send up a red flag for phony laser toner cartridges.

Finally, if your cartridge runs out of ink too quickly, gives messy prints, or damages your printer, don't buy from the same retailer again.

This is not to say that all compatible toner cartridges are bunk. But if you're going to spend tens of dollars on a cartridge, why risk it?

Remanufactured Laser Toner Cartridges

Most manufacturers, and some third-party distributors, will give you money or discounts in exchange for your old laser toner cartridges. They in turn replace the guts of the cartridge, refill it with toner, and resell it at a big discount. In many cases, the quality is almost exactly the same as new. For example, a black-ink cartridge for an Epson Stylus Color 880 costs $27 from Epson, but only $12 from Rhinotek.

<a target="_new" href="http://www.e-lasertoner.com">Laser Toner Info</a> provides detailed information about later toner cartridges and refills, as well as reviews of laser toner products. Laser Toner Info is the sister site of <a target="_new" href="http://www.e-brochureprinting.com">Brochure Printing Web</a>.

How to Get the Case Off Your PC!

This is the first step to servicing, upgrading or removing PC hardware from your PC. Refer to my other articles on adding, upgading or removing just about any piece of hardware.

First things first, get that case off your PC. This is usually done by removing the screws on the back. Don't remove the ones near your power supply! This will cause your power supply to fall out. Simply remove the screws along the side that seem to be holding the case to the frame. Usually, this is about 6-9 screws. This will remove both sides. If you are aiming on only removing one side (sometimes this is best, as you only need to service one side) then remove the three screws holding the one side on. (For clone PCs. For IBM/Compaqs, refer below). After you've got the screws off either the one side, or both sides, simply slide the sides off towards the front side (the side where the power button is).

If you've got an IBM or Compaq, you will need to remove all the screws holding the case onto the back, and then employ one or both methods. Some IBM PCs require you to "yank" the case off. Don't be rough - just remove the screws, then hold the PC in both hands and pull the case towards you, in the direction facing the front. Some of these can be quite annoying to get loose. The other method is using push tabs - some PC cases have these, so if you are having trouble, look for these puppies.

I am a young, aspiring computer engineer into Internet Marketing, hardware, software, web design, SEO and just about anything related to computers. Please come check out my growing PC forum at <a target="_new" href="http://www.markspcforum.com">http://www.markspcforum.com</a>

Your Printer Is Out Of Ink -- Now What?

We've all been there. You're in the middle of printing out an important document and your printer suddenly stops. It's the dreaded &quot;out of ink&quot; message. So you pull your backup ink cartridges out of your desk drawer and replace them. Wishful thinking, right?

Most of us just don't plan ahead -- no matter how many times this has happened to us. When we buy ink cartridges, we tend to just get one set of black and color cartridges. The cost of ink is so high that buying more than one set is just too expensive for most consumers. Thankfully, there are less expensive options out there ? and you don't have to sacrifice quality.

Option 1 ? Avoid Staples, Best Buy, and other large retailers altogether. You're never going to get a good deal on ink cartridges since they only sell name brand replacements. Instead, do your homework on the internet. There are many reputable websites out there that charge up to 80% less for cartridges.

How is that possible? Rather than selling name brand replacements, online ink retailers sell compatible and remanufactured cartridges. There cartridges are technically just as good as the originals, and can be purchased for half as much money. As an added precaution, however, we recommend buying ink cartridges at sites that offer 100% guarantees. In the online world, you never know what you're getting. My advice -- run a search on Yahoo for &quot;ink cartridges.&quot; Visit the first 5 sites. Find the web site that offers the best prices, lowest shipping costs, and a 100% guarantee.

Option 2 ? Refill your ink cartridges. It's not as bad as you might think. And best of all, this is definitely the cheapest way to go. You can fill your ink cartridges up to 10 times with a single ink refill kit. There is obviously some work to this. You basically use a syringe to inject ink back into your original cartridges. If you do this correctly, this is no spillage, and you'll be up in running in no time. It takes a bit of practice to master the art of refilling ink cartridges. Don't get discouraged if it takes a couple of tries before you get it down.

Bill Smith is a printer expert who has specialized in ink cartridges and refill solutions for over 5 years. Visit his site at <a target="_new" href="http://www.buythebestbuy.com">http://www.buythebestbuy.com.</a>

Do You Feel Used by Computers?

<B>Do You Feel Used by Computers?</B>

A look at second-user computer equipment.

Let's dispense with the myths first. I'm NOT talking about the sort of second-hand computers you get from some high street junk shops, or the sort you can buy from free ads newspapers. These are the types that get used computers a bad reputation since there are many dodgy deals to be had!

I'm talking about a different breed altogether, the sort of used computers you'd be proud to own and feel safe buying because they have proper and lengthy warranties on each and every one of them and have been extensively tested and approved.

The criterion is quite strict. Sure, there are any number of companies out there who offer used computers at low prices. Very few offer 12-month warranties however and many of them disappear just as quickly as they arrived leaving you with a problem. All computers, no matter which category they fit in, or what you call them, should be high quality, guaranteed, fully working computers from a reputable supplier.

So, let's put all the computers into two categories, I'm going to call them 'used' and 'unused' computers.

<B>1. Used Computers</B>

Second-hand, second user and used computers are what you would expect in that they have had a previous owner. Many of the computers have been returned to the company from which they were bought in the first place. This is ideal as the company has the appropriate expertise and spares already in place to correct any faults they find.

There are a number of reasons why computers are returned:

- businesses, colleges, individuals etc upgrade their computer equipment for the latest model

- the equipment was leased over a set period and the lease expires (so the equipment is returned)

- the computer gets a fault that can't be fixed quickly so it is swapped permanently out for a new one

- the customer changes their mind just after purchasing

As you can appreciate, 'used computer' can mean anything from 'barely used' to 'a couple of years old'. However, once returned the computers go through a rigorous check procedure, have their hard disks cleared or changed, have new keyboards, mice and cables if worn and new cases if they have noticeable damage. If there are any faulty components, such as sound card, video card, floppy drive etc, these are always replaced. These computers are often referred to as ex-lease, open-box, returns, refurbished, reclaimed, remanufactured, rebuilt, recycled, recertified or reconditioned computers. Phew!

At worst, the used computers, as sold on to you, have minor blemishes, scratches, dents or wear. This is always just cosmetic and does not affect either the performance or value of the computers in any way. What you receive is a fully-working computer, the same working condition as new, but at a price well below that of new. You can often pick up recent high-specification models second-hand and save hundreds of pounds. Of course there are lots of bargains to be had whatever model or type you decide to purchase but note you will sometimes find it difficult to get anything as stock can go very quickly some weeks.

<B>2. Unused Computers</B>

The other main categories of computers are the overstock, surplus, liquidated, superceded, discontinued, open box or end-of-line stock. These are all basically the same in that they are all UNUSED computers. So these are not what you would really classify as second-hand, ie they have not personally been owned and used by any business, college, individual etc. They will often be in their original packaging.

The reasons why these computers come on to the market are because:

- a manufacturer has brought out new models and wants to get rid of the 'old' superceded stock in his warehouse

- a store wants to raise some urgently needed cash and sell his unsold stock

- a factory or store becomes bankrupt and the computer stock is sold

In most of these cases, the stock gets sold to specialist dealers who buy in bulk and who then sell it on to the public, businesses etc. They then either provide a new warranty themselves for the equipment, or ensure there is a full warranty from the original manufacturer. You'll often find Toshiba, HP, Compaq and other brand name computers offered with a 12-month warranty from the original manufacturer. Note that sometimes suppliers refer to open box as meaning refurbished - they will usually state in the description what they mean.

So that's it. Two main categories of computers, quite different from each other but both offering great deals on branded equipment. Either way you will save money and still get a peace-of-mind guarantee on your computer purchase.

One last point. Make sure you check what you are getting for your money. Sometimes the computer may come without Windows installed or without a monitor. Don't assume - check. This will ensure you are happy with your savings AND your purchase.

The author is an experienced computer user, having worked in IT management for a number of years. Now heavily involved in the purchase, use and distribution of thousands of computers at <a target="_new" href="http://www.1st-4-used-computers.com">http://www.1st-4-used-computers.com</a>

Power Protection in the Home Theater - Use of Surge Suppressors to Guard Expensive Electronic Gear

Surge Suppressors ? A First Line of Defense

All home theater equipment should be equipped with at least some form of surge protection. Surge suppressors represent the most basic form of power protection ? a first line of defense for all sensitive electronic gear.

Keep in mind that a surge in the ac voltage or a lightning strike, could lead to disaster - turning expensive gear into a smoking heap of plastic and metal. Investing in a suitably rated surge protector is surely a lot cheaper than having to replace expensive home entertainment electronics.

The large selection of suppressors available on the market at an even wider range of price levels can make the process of selecting an appropriate protection device far from simple. Many of these surge suppressors would look the same to a non-technical person - with almost nothing that distinguish the cheapest from the best.

In their simplest form, surge suppressors often come as an inexpensive surge protected multiple-outlet power-strip. More expensive units would normally incorporate additional surge protected connections for the phone line and the coax TV input; some units include surge protected LAN connections as well. In this manner, anything that interconnects with your equipment would have to go first through the surge protection circuitry within the power-strip.

How Surge Suppressors Work

The basic operational principle behind surge suppressors is to clamp high transient voltages while absorbing this potentially destructive energy. This energy is then dissipated in the form of heat - thus protecting vulnerable circuit components and preventing system damage.

In the event that the surge lasts for several milliseconds, the process may also cause enough current to trip the house circuit breaker, or blow the equipment fuse, thus protecting your gear.

Surge suppressors usually make use of a mix of components to suppress voltage spikes on the line. However, the mostly used component in surge protection circuitry is the Metal Oxide Varistor (or MOV).

The MOV is not the only surge protection component ? gas-tube surge arrestors, avalanche diodes (similar to power zener diodes), and reactive type passive circuitry using inductors and capacitors, all possess the desired electrical properties required to dampen a transient behavior.

None of these devices does represent the perfect surge suppressor. Some lack speed, while others ? like avalanche diodes ? though extremely fast acting, do have a limited energy absorption capacity. For this reason, commercial surge protection devices combine several of these technologies arranged in multiple stages, to prolong surge suppressor life and improve response times.

Surge Suppressor Ratings

This discussion will not be complete without highlighting a few of the most basic parameters that define the capabilities of a surge suppressor; these are the UL listing, voltage rating, peak surge current, and power handling.

IEEE 1449 Underwriters Laboratories Listing: Referred to as 'UL 1449' or simply 'UL listing', represent a set of specifications that determine if a surge suppressor is safe during use.

Ensure that the selected surge suppressor is labeled as 'UL-listed transient voltage surge suppressor (TVSS) 2nd edition'. A UL-listing as 'power tap' is not sufficient.

A UL-listed TVSS does not imply that it will protect your equipment from surges, but rather that the surge protector is not likely to pose any personal hazard to you during use e.g. through electrocution, fire, etc.

Operating Voltage: The lower the voltage rating of a surge suppressor, the more effective protection the surge suppressor will provide, however the voltage rating has to be in line with the respective application. In particular, the chosen suppressor voltage rating should allow the normal peak AC voltage to exist across the line ? this is 1.414 times higher than the specified RMS value.

Peak Surge Current: This represents the maximum transient current that the suppressor can handle during a surge.

Joule Rating: Also referred to as 'Energy rating', this is a measurement of the energy absorption capability of the surge protection device. Typical values may vary from 500 to 3000 and over. The higher the joule rating, the better is the surge suppressor capability to absorb energy spikes on the line.

A Word of Caution

Designed properly, surge suppression devices can work over-and-over again, but...

Do not take surge suppression devices for granted. Beware of cheaply made power line conditioners and other protection gear. Some surge suppressor components used in these devices are typically a one-time use only. This means that your system may end up completely unprotected after a surge.

Quality: The quality of a surge suppressor is reflected in the price of the protection device, but not only. Check the joule rating of the surge protector to get an indication of how much damaging energy the suppressor can handle. The bigger the joule rating is, the better. Keep in mind however that unlike the UL-1449 Listing, there is no standardized testing methodology to determine the energy rating of a surge suppressor. Hence, do not rely on the joule rating alone ? look also at the built-up quality and in particular, at the product warranty on offer.

Warranty: In addition to the standard product warranty, some manufactures also offer a 'Connected Equipment Product Warrant'. This is normally in the region of several tens of thousands of dollars.

A longer product warranty period and a higher connected equipment warranty value reflect a higher level of confidence on part of the manufacturer that the surge suppressor can protect your expensive home theater gear. Try to go for surge suppressor devices that come with at least a 5-year product warranty period, and a minimum of $10,000 (preferably $25,000), connected equipment warranty.

Performance: The performance of surge suppressors degrades with each surge absorbed. The problem here is that the rate of degradation is totally unforeseen due to the unpredictable nature of the surge. Surge rise time, peak voltage, energy level, and duration, all have a varying effect on surge protection circuitry.

A surge may have a higher energy level than the suppressor can handle, leading to the destruction of the suppressor and zero protection against possible future surges. To minimize this risk, top-quality power protection gear would normally make use of over-rated components in protection circuitry - thus allowing multiple surges to take place without any damage to the equipment.

Surge Suppressors are not lightning protection devices: Surge suppressors can provide adequate protection from 'normal' surges on AC power lines. Protection against lightning strikes it is a completely different story. No surge suppressor device can offer you the required level of protection in this respect.

Personal safety: Ensure that your surge suppressor is clearly specified as UL listed Transient Voltage Suppressor (2nd edition). This will reduce the risk of personal harm from fire or electrocution especially during a surge. At the same time, keep in mind that a UL-listed device does not guarantee that it will protect your equipment.

Conclusion:

In reality, surge suppressors are just a first line of defense ? they do not provide protection from damaging voltage fluctuations and noise on the line that can seriously degrade the performance of your AV gear.

Surge suppressors should form part of an overall power protection solution ? the use of line conditioners and ac-regenerators coupled with an appropriately rated surge suppressor would surely provide a more comprehensive approach to protecting expensive electronic gear.

Obviously, there is a price to pay for power protection, but it is literally - an ounce of prevention that can save you a big headache down the road!

Andrew Ghigo ? A Telecoms/Electronics engineer by profession, with specialization in digital switching and telecoms fraud management systems.

Editor and publisher of <a target="_new" href="http://www.practical-home-theater-guide.com">http://www.practical-home-theater-guide.com</a> - a site dedicated to all home theater enthusiasts with the scope of serving as a comprehensive home theater guide to home theater systems, product reviews and home theater design.

This article is an excerpt from a series of articles appearing under the <a target="_new" href="http://www.practical-home-theater-guide.com/power-line-conditioners.html">Power Protection</a> section of the site.

Topics covered include benefits of power protection in the home theater, power line conditioners, ac regenerators, and surge protection. There is also a 'before-you-buy' power protection checklist, and a short discussion on the possible use of inexpensive computer-grade uninterruptible power supplies, as part of a home theater power-protection solution.

The Benifits of Assembling Your Own Computer

Thinking about getting a new computer, but with all the choices out there are you getting a little overwhelmed? Well why not look into building your own computer? By building your own computer you can get all the options you really want, whether you need a graphics design machine, game machine or just a simple word processor. You can tailor the computer to your specific needs. Now I know what you are thinking, &quot;Isn't building a computer difficult? I don't want to screw anything up.&quot; Well with a little reading, assembling your computer will be cake.

Most computer parts will only fit in the slots that they are intended for, so there is little possibility of plugging something in the wrong spot, but a little preparation and reading can go a long way. There are literally hundreds of sites on the web with tutorials that you can check out. Now be careful because some will be better than others, try to read a few so that you can really get a feel for what you are going to do. One of the sites I recommend you check out is <a href="http://www.cheap-computers-and-parts.com" target="_new">http://www.cheap-computers-and-parts.com</a>.

When you go about purchasing the parts, like any other big purchase, price them out, you may find that the price of parts varies between stores. Usually you'll be able to make a deal with one of the stores around to give you all the parts at the lowest price you found, saving you some cash, and the hassle of driving all over town picking up parts.

Once you've got all parts you want and need, and you've read a few tutorials, its time to put it all together and enjoy your very own brand new computer.

About The Author

Kevin Hinton - <a href="http://www.cheap-computers-and-parts.com" target="_new">http://www.cheap-computers-and-parts.com</a>

Review of Popular Wireless Headphones

Just about everyone would I agree, I think, that wires on headphones are just about the most annoying wires associated with any electronic device. When you listen to music you don't want to have to stay in anyone one place, and you don't want to have to worry about cords tripping you are pulling your headphones down. The answer to this problem is wireless headphones, many of which allow you to listen to music over 100 feet away. They, like all wireless devices, give you a sense of freedom, an ability to move, work, and play wherever you want. You will find here a list of some of the most popular wireless headphone devices, with important information about each.

<B>RCA WHR120 Infrared Wireless Stereo Headphones</B>

Manufacturers Description: Experience the freedom that RCA Infrared Wireless Headphones can provide. You don't have to be chained to your stereo when you put on a pair of headphones. With the infrared, line-of-sight transmission, you have 23 feet to roam as you please. Also, the base doubles as a convenient charger and stand. And the lightweight design and adjustable band make for a comfortable, snug fit. Enjoy life with RCA technology.

Key Features:

- Provides convenient listening privacy in the same room

- Low cost infrared technology operates up to 20 ft. from transmitter

- Adjustable headband provides comfort for hours of listening pleasure

- Horizontal style transmitter is compact, saves shelf space

- Operates on Two "AAA" size rechargeable batteries (connect to transmitter for recharging)

Price: $25

<B>RCA WHR150 Wireless Stereo Headphones</B>

Manufacturers Description: Hear your stereo outside your house without disturbing the neighbors. With RCA Wireless 900 MHz Headphones, you don't even have to be in the same room with your stereo. The 900 MHz signal can pass through walls, floors, and carry outside of your home up to 125 ft. That means you have the freedom to work or relax wherever you wish without the problem of being connected to cords or carrying around a portable system. The lightweight design and adjustable headband make the fit so comfortable that you will hardly notice you have them on, as you move freely about your home. Also, the unique compact base serves as both a charger and a stand. Add some freedom to your life with this innovation from the RCA brand.

Key Features:

- Transmits 900MHz stereo signal up to 125 ft.

- Goes through walls and floors

- Unique compact base serves as both a charger and a stand

- Lightweight design with adjustable headband

- Soft earpads for comfortable listening

Price: $75

<B>Sony MDRRF920RK 900 MHz Wireless Headphones

Manufacturers Description: Tired of tripping over cords, and accidentally ripping out headphone jacks? Go wireless, and listen to the freedom. Sony's MDR-RF920RK 900 MHz RF Wirless Headphones have a transmission range of 150 feet, allowing you to roam your house or yard without missing a beat (or word). The 900 MHz radio frequency delivers high quality sound, and the 30mm driver units provide deeper bass, lower distortion and a wider dynamic range. These lightweight headphones are easily recharged by placing them on the transmitter, and the package includes rechargeable NiMH batteries.

A powerful ARM processor lets you listen to MP3s while looking up an address or scheduling an appointment. Watch the latest movie trailer or a new sales video. Carry digital photo albums of friends and family, students and co-workers, even the latest real estate listings. Plus it's expandable, and with 32MB of memory there's plenty of room to customize from more than 18,000 applications (sold separately).

Key Features:

- Wireless Design lets you move inside and outside your house and still enjoy music and TV sound, and lets you turn up the volume late at night without disturbing others.

- 150 Foot Transmission Range for listening enjoyment upstairs, downstairs, virtually everywhere in your home and outside in your backyard.

- 900 MHz Radio Frequency (RF) Transmission provides better sound quality and greater range.

- 30mm Diameter Driver Units are larger than many portable headphones for deeper bass, lower distortion and wider dynamic range; low frequency response extends down to 20Hz.

- PET Diaphragms ensure high rigidity for minimum distortion, and low mass for excellent high-frequency response.

- Ferrite Magnets combine high energy and small size for ample sound output.

- Comfortable Open-Air Type Supra-Aural Headphones fit securely for maximum frequency response reception.

- Double Headband with self-adjusting mechanism conforms to the curve of your head for a fit.

- Easy Rechargeable Battery System automatically charges the headphones when placed onto the transmitter.

- 3 Transmission Channels Available helps ensure optimum signal reception; convenient sliding selector control on the side of the transmitter.

- Automatic Power On/Off for both headphones and transmitter conserves battery life; transmitter turns on when it senses an input signal; headphones turn on when you place them on your head.

- Complete Kit is supplied, which includes transmitter, headphones, connecting cord, UniMatch plug adapter and AC power supply.

- Supplied Connecting Cord goes directly to headphone output of your high fidelity system for easy connection to hi-fi system, TV or VCR.

- FM Transmission System resists static and distortion for higher fidelity.

- Included Rechargeable NiMHBatteries provide up to 18 hours of playback when fully charged.

Price: $50

<B>Sennheiser RS-65 Hi-Fi Stereo Wireless Headphones</B>

Manufacturers Description: The RS-65 wireless RF headphone system with open, circumaural headphones features an integrated, switchable SRS processor for impressive surround sound. The system has very transparent and balanced sound reproduction and comes equipped with Center-Lock TM Auto-Tuning. This feature allows you to automatically adjust to the transmitter with a simple touch of a button (and can simply be returned with a second touch if it locks on to your neighbor's transmitter).

Features:

- Supra-aural, hi-fi stereo headphones for superb audio quality

-Volume and transmission channel can be set individually on the headphones

- Expand with an additional set of headphones for multiperson use

- Soft, cloth-covered earpads and headband cushion for comfortable extended use

- Transmission range: 300 feet

- Extremely lightweight - less than 6 ounces

Price: $180

<B>Sennheiser RS-85 Hi-Fi Stereo Wireless Headphones</B>

Manufacturers Description: The RS-85 wireless RF headphone system with open, circumaural headphones features HiDyn Plus noise reduction for wide dynamics and superb sound quality, ensuring a very natural and detailed sound reproduction. The RS-85 comes equipped with Center-Lock TM Auto-Tuning, which allows you to automatically adjust to the transmitter with a simple touch of a button (and can simply be returned with a second touch if it locks on to your neighbor's transmitter). The RS-85 headphones feature reception up to 300 feet from the transmitter, through walls and ceilings, even outside the home. A second battery pack is also provided for near limitless use; simply charge one as the other is being used.

Price: $250

Bradley James is a senior editor at <a target="_new" href="http://www.scinet.cc">SciNet.cc</a>, a website containing many helpful consumer electronics review articles. For more information on wireless headphone technology, please visit our <a target="_new" href="http://www.scinet.cc/articles/wireless-headphones/sony-rca-sennheiser.html">wireless headphones</a> webpage.

How To Upgrade Your PC

Before you upgrade your PC hardware it's best to search all options and ask for advice. Only after this you can go and buy a new component. It's also useful to check if you really need an upgrade.

Do not upgrade your very old PC because it would cost a lot of money. It's cheaper to buy a new computer in such cases because they are easier to upgrade later.

Upgrading the hard drive:

The majority of people do not really need to upgrade their hard disk, unless they use it for playing a lot of music, movies, and games. A 20 GB hard drive is sufficient to keep new office and internet applications, and all your files and data.

A medium sized hard drive would be around 40 GB and the maximum would be around 60 ? 80 GB.

Before upgrading your hard disk it's best to do a complete disk checkup including disk scan, defragmentation, etc. If you happen to be an average user and need more storage you can add an additional drive to the existing one. Before an upgrade, be sure to back up your files.

Upgrading the RAM:

RAM or Random Access Memory is the short-term memory of the PC. It keeps data that is being worked on now and may or may not be transferred to the hard drive that represents the long-term memory of the computer.

Current processors can perform an enormous number of operations per second. The hard drive, on the other hand, is significantly slower to handle so much information. This is where a high-speed RAM memory comes in. RAM needs a power supply to keep data. Once the power is turned off the data is lost.

Almost all PCs have 64 MB RAM and often 128 MB. If you want to run newer applications on your PC then you must upgrade to 128/256 MB RAM.

A lot of people who upgrade from 98 to Win 2000 discover that their computers lock up very often. This is because they don't have enough RAM.

CPU upgrade:

If you choose this upgrade, you will have faster execution of instructions but it leaves the RAM and hard drive capacity unchanged.

This sis the most cost effective upgrade and can increase the efficiency of your computer considerably. Seek a professional help before you take a decision.

Motherboard:

Upgrading motherboard is not such a good proposition unless you replace the CPU and the RAM as well to achieve greater performance levels. You upgrade the motherboard either because the current one doesn't support a faster CPU or the CPU requires a different socket. It could be very expensive. Think about buying a new PC.

Ports:

Ports are sockets at the back of your computer where you plug in external devices. Older PCs work on &quot;parallel&quot; ports. If you need to work a lot on peripherals such as digital cameras, digital camcorders, CD burners, and scanners then you need to upgrade to USB and Firewire ports if you are not using them already.

Both tend to be cheaper than the &quot;parallel&quot; and SCSI devices they replace. Always make sure that there are no compatibility problems with other devices in your PC when you plan to upgrade any hardware on your machine.

If you are planning to <a target="_new" href="http://www.laptopcomputerscenter.info/">buy laptop computer </a> visit <a target="_new" href="http://www.laptopcomputerscenter.info/">Laptop Computer Center</a> for the latest news and information.

Choosing a Tape Drive

Tape drives remain the leading technology used by organizations for backup and archiving. However, the plethora of tape drives on the market can make choosing the appropriate tape drive a confusing task. How do you select a tape drive that satisfies your needs without blowing the budget? The following are just some of the main factors to consider.

1. Capacity

Select a tape drive that has sufficient capacity to store your backups. Tape drives are able to compress data so that more data may fit on the tape, which is why manufacturers specify both a native capacity and a compressed capacity, usually with a compression ratio at 2:1. However, highly-compressed files such as those in video and sound formats are hardly compressible at all. For this reason, do not heed the specified compressed capacity when choosing a tape drive.

A good way to determine the size of the backup job after compression is to study logs of past backups. If these are unavailable, it is safe to assume that the data can be compressed at a ratio of 1.4:1, unless the hard drive contains an usually large number of highly-compressed files.

2. Transfer rate

The transfer rate of the tape drive is becomes important when there is limited "window of opportunity" in which backup jobs may run. It is often desirable for backups to take place during the night when network use is at its lowest.

Select a tape drive that is capable of completing a backup job within your window of opportunity. For instance, to back up 400GB per night, you will require a transfer rate of about 30GB/hour.

A little known fact about tape drives is that data must be supplied to them at a sufficient rate in order to keep them streaming, or else the tape suffers from start-stop motion. This motion severely degrades the life of the drive and tapes and the reliability of backups.

There are two usual reasons why tape drive are not be supplied with data at a sufficient rate. Firstly, the rate at which data is read from the hard disk of the server is insufficient. This rate is dependent on the sizes and locations of the files on disk and is generally unpredictable, but can be determined by the use of specialised software.

Secondly, if data is being transferred over a network of computers to a backup server, the network may be incapable of supplying data at a sufficient rate. The maximum throughput of a network is predictable and easy to measure, based on previous network performance.

Consider a network using 10BaseT Ethernet. This transfer rate through this type of network cannot exceed 10MB/s, so it is immediately apparent that a tape drive requiring 20MB/s is inappropriate.

3. Reliability and duty cycle

A simple way to gauge the reliability of a tape drive is to find out the Mean Time Between Failure (MTBF) as specified by the manufacturer. You should note, however, that the MTBF is usually specified at a certain duty cycle. For example, consider a Travan tape drive with a MTBF of 370,000 hours at 20% duty cycle. The drive will only have an average of 370,000 hours between failures if it is run less than 20% of the time (about 4.8 hours per day), and running the tape drive for any longer will significantly reduce the reliability of the drive.

4. Price

There is no point purchasing the highest-range tape drive if it's simply too expensive. Consider how much value-for-money the tape drive will give you. Are you willing to pay more for extra performance? Or do you need to sacrifice some performance to save on costs?

If you choose wisely, you should end up with a tape drive that fulfils your organization's <a target="_new" href="http://www.backupassist.com/news/tape-backup.html">tape backup</a> and archiving needs, without blowing the budget.

Linus Chang is a backup expert and the lead developer of BackupAssist -- <a target="_new" href="http://www.backupassist.com">tape backup software</a> that is simple and affordable, and perfect for small and medium businesses. Protect your Windows servers, including SQL Server and Exchange Server, to tape, REV drive, hard drive, NAS and more, at a fraction of the cost of other <a target="_new" href="http://www.backupassist.com/news/tape-backup-software.html">backup software</a>.

Nvidia Geforce 7800 GTX Review

Nvidia has done it again, with it's newest video card, the geforce 7800 GTX. If money is no object and you demand the best, this is the video card for you.

The 7800 GTX, which promises 600 MHz, 256 MB of 256-bit DDR3 memory and a graphics core clock speed of 430 MHz, is the absolute fastest video card, to date, that money can buy.

Despite the high clock speeds, the 7800 utilizes a single-slot cooling solution. This is made possible because of the processor size which is 20 NM smaller then their previous 8600's. Also contributing to the cooling of the card is the improved power managment system, which automatically turns off unused portions of the chip.

The 7800GTX is equipped with 24 pixel shader units and 8 vertex shader units. With over 200 GFLOP's of shading avaliable, Nvidia raises the bar, once again, on video card's graphics and performance.

This is all in just one videocard, pair them up in SLI mode and you have the best video cards in terms of speed, stability and appearance. One thing to watch however, when running dual cards in SLI mode, is that unless you have a top of the line processor, such as the FX-55 you may find your video cards waiting on your processor to catch up. In this case you may want to hold off on getting both cards untill you upgrade your processor.

Nicholas Spriggs is the author and creator of desktop-computer-guide and is dedicated to bringing you the most accurate information on computers and all things related

<a target="_new" href="http://www.desktop-computer-guide.com">http://www.desktop-computer-guide.com</a> - Your guide to computers

USB Hubs and Ports Explained

The USB standard has become the universal means of connection peripheral devices and equipment to the computer. Computers have either two or four USB port connectors. Each of these can support a large number of connections but to be able to attach more than two or four devices requires a multi-connection hub. There are many different types of hubs and this article seeks to explain some of the important considerations in selecting the best choice of hub for your system.

The USB bus system in computers was introduced in 1996 and has gone through a number of developments and enhancements. It started out as USB 1 which was very slow and had many bugs. Version 1.1 brought a higher bandwidth of 12 MBits/second. The latest version of 2.0 gives a bandwidth of 480MBits/second and is fully backward compatible with USB 1 and 1.1. Link to a table showing differences between USB speeds (http://www.usb-products.com/usb-speed.aspx)

Port Connections and Power
All USB standards support up to 127 connections (or devices) per computer port. It is unlikely that this would be achievable as the port can only supply 0.5 Amps maximum. Some devices consume a full 0.5 Amps, so are powered from a power adaptor from the mains supply.

Bandwidth Sharing
Generally, the bandwidth of the port (http://www.usb-products.com/usb-port.aspx) is shared between all the devices that are attached through a hub. This means that if you want to add two USB 2 devices with a USB 1.1 device, the bandwidth is shared between all three devices. However, there is an extra complication. Most hubs (http://www.usb-products.com/usb-hub.aspx) have a single chip controlling the bus. This means that the hub will work at the lowest bandwidth determined by the connected devices resulting in the USB 2 devices working at much lower transfer speeds. Nearly all USB hubs on the market today (passive and powered) operate like this.

Multiple Chip Hubs
The transaction translator (TT) is the name for the controlling chip that assigns bandwidth to each connected device. In hubs that have one TT all devices share the same bandwidth and operate at the speed of the slowest. In hubs with a TT per socket, each receives a share of the bandwidth, but this is not restricted to the slowest device. Examples of this type of hub is the Belkin Tetra hub (http://www.usb-products.com/Products/Hi-Speed-USB-2-0-4-Port-TetraHub.aspx) This has 4 ports each with its own TT.

What this means in reality is that a multiple TT hub will provide much higher bandwidth per port when several devices are connected from one hub.

Maximum Performance and choice of Where to connect a device If you are after maximum performance for each of your USB 2 devices, each device should be plugged into its own USB port in the computer. Additional plug in cards can provide a vast number of USB ports for most needs. However, this situation might be going too far except for the most demanding of situations. Although several USB devices might be connected at the same time it is unlikely that they will all be in use together.

A useful compromise is to plug small bandwidth devices together into a single hub. These would include: mice; keyboard; Speakers; little used devices.

For devices that require a high bandwidth and are used often, direct connection in to a USB port is the best option. Devices would include: Flash memory drives; external disks; Web cams; Other frequently used devices.

If you don't have sufficient ports then either more ports should be added with a plug-in card or a good quality hub with multiple transaction translators should be used. The devices placed on the hub are those that are used less often. Those devices placed directly on the port are used most often.

Link to a selection flow chart that helps in selecting a hub (http://www.usb-products.com/USB-Hub-Selection.aspx)

Access Considerations
What type of configuration and mix of port and hubs will depend on the number of devices that you wish to attach. Desktop computer cases usually have ports in the front of the case for easy access. These can be used for devices that are often plugged / unplugged and require the highest bandwidth. These are flash memory drives and portable external drives and MP3 players.

USB hubs tend to clutter up the area with cable connections and power lead. These naturally go out of sight if possible or behind the monitor. For mobile computers, a small compact hub can be obtained. These may have there own wind-in or tidy away cables.

Powered and Passive Hubs
Hubs may be restricted in their use without a power connection as passive hubs rely on the power of the USB bus. Powered hubs have a mains power adaptor to provide additional power for devices. These devices range in the power they require. It is possible to run a number of different devices all from a single passive hub running of a USB port as long as they have low power requirements. With only 0.5 Amps current it only takes one of the devices requiring the full power requirement for the hub to be overwhelmed. Nothing serious is going to happen though except that the single will degrade and many or all the devices will loose connection with the computer. To avoid this situation a powered hub should be used.

Nigel Stephens heads an online business at <a target="_new" href="http://www.usb-products.com">http://www.usb-products.com</a> supplying computer hardware products. Nigel's emphasis is in providing useful information so that consumers can make more informed choices.

The Printer Cartridge Wars: Generic or Remanufactured Cartridges Right for You?

Overview

As "generic", "remanufactured", and "new compatible" inkjet printer cartridges and laser toner cartridges creep deeper into the printer accessories market, the choices become varied and often confusing. It is estimated that by the year 2004 the aftermarket share of the inkjet and toner cartridge market will exceed 11% of the estimated 12 billion dollar printer accessory market [source: CART magazine, March 2001] Here's a look at what all these terms mean, and an examination of the upside and downside of using non-"brand name" printer cartridge products in your printer.

Terminology

First, let's examine the terminology. When shopping online for a new inkjet or toner cartridge for your printer, you'll likely encounter these terms:

OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) or brand name products

A "brand name" inkjet or toner cartridge is just that - it's a printer cartridge that carries the brand name of the manufacturer on it, usually the same as the printer manufacturer, for example, Epson, Canon, Hewlett Packard, etc.

New compatible, off-brand or generic products

A "new compatible", "off-brand" or "generic" inkjet or toner cartridge is manufactured by a company other than the original printer manufacturer. There are a large number of these "new compatible" manufacturers, and it's quite true that the quality of their product can vary (more on that a bit later). In the case of inkjet cartridges, "generic" cartridges are completely new. In the case of toner cartridges, to qualify as "new compatible" the toner drum must be replaced with a brand new drum, as well as all major parts serviced and replaced as needed.

Remanufactured products

A "remanufactured" inkjet or toner cartridge, by definition, is a cartridge which has been serviced, cleaned, refilled with toner or ink and possibly had a few component parts repaired or replaced. In many cases, remanufactured toner cartridges do not have new drums; they instead refurbish the original drum and send it out for another cycle.

An Important Note About Toner Cartridges

The relatively unknown truth is that almost all laser toner cartridges, including most of the original brand name "new" cartridges, have been remanufactured to some extent. The defining point is to what degree they have had component parts repaired and/or replaced. For example: check the box for a brand new Hewlett Packard Laser Jet 4000/27X. Brand new, right? Well, it is. But check the fine print, which says: This newly manufactured product may contain parts and materials recovered from the HP planet partners recycling program. This means that the product, while "new", is possibly not completely new; it's quite probable that components of this cartridge have been used before, and have been recycled.

Quality vs. Cost

It's a fact: the cost of brand name inkjet and toner cartridges can be exceedingly high in comparison to generic or remanufactured inkjet or toner cartridges. In many cases, new compatible inkjet cartridges can be as much as 70% less than the cost of brand name cartridges. New compatible or remanufactured toner cartridges on the whole tend to be as much as 50% less in cost than their brand name counterparts. For example, an Epson T013201 black inkjer cartridge, used for various Epson Stylus printers, sells for $17.09 direct from Epson. The same cartridge, compatible, at an online retailer, Abacus24-7 (http://www.abacus24-7.com), sells for $4.95. The difference....70% in savings.(Prices as of August 2005)

What's the catch?

Well, there really isn't one, if you find a quality off-brand product you can purchase from an online merchant you can trust, one who stands by their product in those rare cases that generic or remanufactured products don't perform as well as you expect. Brand name cartridges cost much more than generics primarily because of the marketing and advertising budgets most OEM manufacturers spend in promoting their products; a cost most smaller manufacturers don't have. And then there's the issue of your printer warranty - we'll discuss that issue a little bit later.

Inkjet Cartridges: Performance

Generic or new compatible inkjet cartridges are in general highly reliable and perform as well as, or nearly as well as, brand name cartridges. Latest technologies and adherence to ISO 9001 codes (internationally recognized standards for quality assurance) by most producers of generic cartridges has increased the overall reliability of these aftermarket products in relation to your typical brand cartridges. In particular, Epson and Canon new compatibles are highly reliable, as the technology required to duplicate the performance of their cartridges is minimal (with the exception of the very latest Epson cartridges with the "computer chip"). In terms of print life (how many pages they print) generics stack up pretty well - usually within plus or minus 5% of the life of your typical brand name cartridge.

High quality photographic printing is the one area where generic cartridges are occasionally suspect. The quality of the inks used by the manufacturer play a significant role here - lower grade ink which doesn't have the same density or brilliance and consistency of color can produce inferior results in the most high-demand cases. Although most manufacturers of generics have moved away from inferior inks, we recommend you ask your online merchant about the quality of the inks used by their supplier, if you are doing this kind of high-quality photographic printing. In particular, the inks should be made in the U.S.A.. With good ink your results should be just fine.

Remanufactured Inkjet cartridges are another subject. Primarily you will only find remanufactured Inkjet cartridges for Hewlett Packard, Lexmark and Dell, as these companies have meticulously patented (and subsequently filed suit against anyone who tried to duplicate) their inkjet cartridge designs. There are no true "generics" for HP or Dell inkjet printers.

Remanufactured cartridges are a huge cost value over new cartridges - usually over 50% less - and for every day printing work just fine. The failure rate of remanufactured cartridges is slightly higher than new product, however, and so it's important your online merchant guarantees their product to cover the occasional return. For typical printing, remanufactured inkjet cartridges can be the right choice over new ones. Lately, Dell computers and printers are increasing in popularity. Dell's popular models include the Color 720, and All-in-One a920, a940, and a960 models. Direct from Dell, one can buy an OEM cartridge, for example the color cartridge (X0504) for the Dell a940 printer for $34.99 from www.dell.com. The same cartridge, yet remanufactured, sells online for $23.95 at Abacus24-7 (http://www.abacus24-7.com).(Prices as of August 2005)

Laser Toner Cartridges: Performance

As with generic or new compatible inkjet cartridges, new compatible toner cartridges are for the most part highly reliable and provide a noticeable cost savings over brand new toner cartridges. Again, ISO 9001 standards have greatly increased the consistency and reliability of the aftermarket toner product in recent years. Further, many new compatible toner manufacturers increase the volume of toner in the cartridge, providing for a longer print life. Quality new compatible cartridges will have new or replaced mag sleeves, wiper blades, and magnet tips.

Remanufactured toner cartridges in general have a less stringent set of criteria applied to them, and as mentioned before may not contain a new toner drum. Be sure to ask your supplier. It is our humble recommendation that you go with toner cartridges that have a new aftermarket drum, as opposed to a refurbished or recycled drum. Lastly, ask if the new drum is "high density". You want that.

Color laser new compatible toner cartridges are just coming to market, and although early feedback seems to indicate a positive outlook, an evaluation of these cartridges is premature at this time.

Good for the Country, Good for the Environment

If you care about recycling or the good of the Country's economy, consider these facts:

- 99% of new compatible toner cartridges are manufactured in the USA; most "OEM" brand cartridges are manufactured overseas

- Nearly 40,000 tons of plastic are saved from our nation's landfills each year, by remanufacture of inkjet and toner cartridges

- It takes on average 2 quarts of oil to manufacture a Brand New Toner cartridge but less than half of that amount to manufacture a new compatible toner cartridge

Your Printer Warranty and You

A legitimate concern of many people is whether using generic or remanufactured cartridges in their printer voids the printer's warranty. The answer is no. The following is a partial quote of the text of the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Improvement Act, which deals with this exact question:

MAGNUSON-MOSS WARRANTY IMPROVEMENT ACT

United States Code Annotated

Title 15 Commerce and Trade

Chapter 50 Consumer Product Warranties

15 Section 2032

... (c) No warrantor of a consumer product may condition his written or implied warranty of such product on the consumer's using, in connection with such product, any article or service (other than article or service provided without charge under the terms of the warranty) which is identified by brand, trade or corporate name; except that the prohibition of this subsection be waived by the commission if:

1) The warrantor satisfies the Commission that the warranted product will function properly only if the article or service so identified is used in connection with the warranted product, and

2) the Commission finds that such a waiver is in the public interest.

In English, this means that no warranty may be voided by use of aftermarket products unless the manufacturer acquires a waiver that clearly shows such voidance would be in the public interest, or that their product will only function properly if the specified manufacturer parts are used.

There is one catch, however: the manufacturer (in this case your printer manufacturer) is not compelled to repair their product under warranty if damage done to the product occurred as a direct result of using aftermarket parts. In other words, using generic cartridges is fine, and if your printer ever fails under conditions which have nothing to do with the cartridge you are using, no problem. However, if the damage is directly caused (however unlikely) by the use of a generic cartridge, the warrantor may elect not to repair it, although the warranty would remain in effect for all other warranty issues.

Conclusion

In general, aftermarket generic and new compatible or remanufactured printer cartridge products are an excellent way to cut significant costs from your every day small business or personal printing expense, while maintaining quality printing results. Those who need extremely high quality printing (such as photographers and artists) can, with a little trial-and-error testing of different generic cartridge products, find a product which provides the quality results you need.

In all cases, be sure to buy your cartridges from an online supplier who 100% guarantees their product without question, and isn't afraid to answer your questions when it comes to the quality and reliability of their products.

Written by David Amerman also published by <a target="_new" href="http://www.About.com">About.com</a>